This past Saturday (or current Saturday for you folks living stateside…in the past) we went to the Orion Beer Festival. It is a 2 day event that Maureen read about on the MCCS (Marine Corps…..cool stuff) web site. It coincides with a traditional Okinawan festival with tons of Eisa dancing (imagine drums, colorful outfits, face paint, and people dressed as (I'm assuming) traditional characters from Okinawan history/mythology. We went with Mel and Jonathan so all 4 of us piled into one of our tiny cars (Mel's, which is codenamed: Beeteru ((Beetle)), and headed out. We could have parked on base but it's a bit of a walk from there to the stadium/fair grounds where the event was so we decided to drive over and try our luck. Our luck didn't look good at first as tons of streets were blocked off and many people were walking to the venue, but then our luck changed and someone held up a sign with Japanese writing and "¥1500" with an arrow. We asked in perfect Japanese (I'm lying) if they were offering parking, and they were! They said "follow her"(I think) and pointed at an adorable grinning 6 year old girl who waved at us and took off down a side street. She kept looking back and waving then running again and it was awesome. She led us to a grassy lot that ended up being about 100 yards from the event. What luck!
Our bellies and eyes full, we decided to head into the beer festival. Inside the archway there were rows and rows of communal tables in a huge open area roughly facing a stage. It kinda reminded me of pictures I've seen of Octoberfest in Germany. This was all surrounded with booths selling Orion beer or "beer-like drinks" (Chu-hai), as well as Orion merch and some food. The drinks were impressively cheap, as in only ¥150-300 per drink (which is equivalent to ~$1.25-2.50 USD)! We grabbed beers but the tables were pretty taken up so we decided to walk around some more.
We walked into the stadium and were surprised to find the Eisa dancing still going on (we thought it had ended hours before our arrival). The outfits were really cool and the dancing and drums were impressive. We ran low on beverages so headed back to the beer garden. While we'd been out it had filled up even more and we had trouble even finding standing room. The people watching was incredible. Men and women were dressed in festival attire (kimonos for women, and these woven jacket and loose shorts outfits for the men) This was mostly Okinawans but there were some Americans dressed this way too. I'm going to look into the appropriateness of this as I totally want one of the outfits as they looked super comfortable. We also noticed that Okinawans were getting pleasantly drunk all around. Many groups had staked claims to table areas (with actual markers and make shift flags) and were all challenging each other to drink more beer. One group near us all had yellow shirts that looked like they represented some sports league (like an intramural softball team). One of them was attempting to fend off passing out while sitting up in his chair. His head kept slowly dipping back until he'd hit a point of maximum extension then he'd jerk his head back upright to start the process over. We kept noticing and then one of his companions noticed us noticing and said to Maureen in basically perfect english "punch him, wake him up". Maureen laughed and then started talking with him about his drunk friend. She asked if there was any room around them and they regretted to tell us that all of the seats were claimed. But they looked around for a few seconds and then a bunch of them hopped up and moved some chairs and offered us 4 seats in the middle of the table row! This led to an awesome evening in which we established a few things. Okinawans are incredibly nice…... and the happiest drunks I have ever met.
To set the scene, it's a bunch of guys in neon yellow shirts with empty and full beer cups overflowing all over the table. They were to the left of us. On our right there were some empty seats but a few Okinawan ladies and a few kids with a ton of food. Raku was the guy who first spoke to us and he chatted us up for a bit. He'd studied abroad in Riverside, CA so when he found out we'd just moved from San Diego, he reminisced about In 'N Out burgers and the amazing mexican food in southern California. His friends wanted to chat with us too and one of them put a strange light on his head that seemed to randomly flash red and green. We asked what it was and he said, "I cannot lie, it will show" and pointed to the light. We realized it was supposed to be a lie detecter. Then he said, "Watch. I am very smart!" and the light flashed red. The whole table busted up laughing. "I am very good looking" again red. This continued to much laughter. People kept coming by and taking pictures with the perpetually passing out while sitting up guy. Girls would pretend to kiss him. Guys would pretend to be feeding him beer. The rest of the guys would then challenge the picture taker to a chugging contest and down more beers, followed by tons of high-fives. I was struck by how they liked to prank and compete but it was always very good natured and so…..nice.
To set the scene, it's a bunch of guys in neon yellow shirts with empty and full beer cups overflowing all over the table. They were to the left of us. On our right there were some empty seats but a few Okinawan ladies and a few kids with a ton of food. Raku was the guy who first spoke to us and he chatted us up for a bit. He'd studied abroad in Riverside, CA so when he found out we'd just moved from San Diego, he reminisced about In 'N Out burgers and the amazing mexican food in southern California. His friends wanted to chat with us too and one of them put a strange light on his head that seemed to randomly flash red and green. We asked what it was and he said, "I cannot lie, it will show" and pointed to the light. We realized it was supposed to be a lie detecter. Then he said, "Watch. I am very smart!" and the light flashed red. The whole table busted up laughing. "I am very good looking" again red. This continued to much laughter. People kept coming by and taking pictures with the perpetually passing out while sitting up guy. Girls would pretend to kiss him. Guys would pretend to be feeding him beer. The rest of the guys would then challenge the picture taker to a chugging contest and down more beers, followed by tons of high-fives. I was struck by how they liked to prank and compete but it was always very good natured and so…..nice.
As I was watching these antics and felt someone almost collapse into my back. I turned and a tiny Okinawan woman wearing a egg yolk character mask had sat down/toppled into the seat next to me. She was about 15 sheets to the wind and having a GREAT time. She spoke very little english (looking back it mainly consisted of "yes" and "no") and I indicated that I didn't speak any Japanese, so of course we embarked on an epic and long lasting conversation during which she would randomly say "no-no-no-no-no" and re-explain something in Japanese. I would guess something completely random, and she would say "yes-yes-yes-yes". We had a really good time with this. She kept cracking up and offering us things. The mask she was wearing had a Sanrio kids' cartoon character on it. We asked her what his name was but all we got out of her was that he is a "lazy egg" and she interpreted our questions as us asking to put the mask on ourselves. She would give us the mask, we would hold it up to our faces, and she would crack up. This was repeated many times. One of her table mates made a little plate of some of their food and gave it to us. We tried to refuse but she insisted and it was delicious. We went and bought them all a round of beers, but "tipsy eggyolk woman" (we never did get her name) insisted on also buying us beers. Fortunately her friends accepted a few more beers from us later.
This was all followed by the performance of some really great (from the Okinawans reactions) band and fireworks with a laser show through the smoke.
Theeeeeen, I noticed a kid at a side table who had BATTLE BEASTS! These were toys from my childhood in the 80's and they had NEW JAPANESE ONES! I had to have them, so I asked the table where they got them. Actually I most likely terrified the kid who probably thought I was trying to take his toys. His Mom was, of course, super nice and after "talking" (pointing at toys, pointing around park, questioning look on my face) to her and some uncles at the table we determined that the toys could be won as a prize at a shooting gallery game. So as soon as the fireworks were done, I beelined it to the shooting gallery. You got an airsoft gun and 6 shots. You had to knock down 5 cups with balls in them that then slid down a pachinko board and if you stacked 3 balls into one column, you could pick a "3" prize. Being the sharpshooter that I am (you stand about 2 feet away from the cups) I won. The battle beasts are mine!!! Amazing ending to a great night. We're probably going back today. So basically, I love Okinawa, and I write really long blog posts. You're welcome. Tune in next time for a much more coherent and elegantly written post by my amazing wife. Konichiwa!